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Today, with the Indian male becoming more experimental and flamboyant, the trend is popular among men of all ages, shapes and sizes. Even French designer Jean Paul Gaultier’s spring 2013 collection at the Paris Fashion Week had stylised lambskin Jodhpurs.
Originating from the churidaar trouser style, Jodhpur pants, accessorised with metallic buttons, chains and pockets, are now worn in both formal and casual settings. “The Jodhpur pants are so uniquely Indian,” says restaurateur A D Singh, managing director, Olive Bar & Kitchen, who cuts a fine figure in well-tailored Jodhpur pants with casual linen shirts at society dos. “When I travel to different places across the world and meet new people, they know that this garment is a cultural statement.” For more formal occasions and parties in the evening, he dons a custom-made bandhgala in dark shades, complete with a pocket square, with his Jodhpur pants. “I prefer white Jodhpurs which are versatile and can be worn in different style variations.” Singh’s wardrobe also includes trendy lungis and pathani pants.
“The pants should be fitted at the knees, the length should be perfect at the ankles. And they shouldn’t balloon too much at the waist,” stresses Singh who is willing to spend over Rs 10,000 on a good pair in light fabrics. And for the perfect fit, Singh swears by designer Raghavendra Rathore’s fine tailoring.
“The perfect pair of Jodhpur pants are second skin. They should be snug and well-fitted,” says Rathore, suggesting that one should get them tailored instead of buying them off the rack. A member of the erstwhile royal clan of Jodhpur, Rathore decided to patent the two styles he is famous for — the Jodhpurs and the bandhgalas — last year to “officiate their authenticity”.
With summer on its way, Rathore insists that one should opt for Jodhpur pants in 100 per cent cotton fabric with stylised patterns. The Rathore Jodhpur Pants, he says, draw inspiration from the costumes of Indian princes, “a heritage unique to India”. His patrons include natty dressers Saif Ali Khan and Shah Rukh Khan, who team them with t-shirts, bandhgalas and waistcoats. Rathore Jodhpurs start at Rs 7,000.
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But not every man can pull off Jodhpur pants with ease. The choices available in the market — Jodhpore trousers, Knickerbockers and knee-patch breeches — may be daunting and one can go terribly wrong teaming them thoughtlessly.
A good way to pair breeches, suggests GQ Fashion Director Vijendra Bhardwaj, is to create a visual balance by contrasting the top volume. “Balance the fluffiness of the trouser with skinnier, tighter shirts, t-shirts or fitted jackets.” Avoid a sloppy look by pairing Jodhpur pants with a loose shirt. “It’s good to grip the look, somewhere,” says Bhardwaj. He adds that while Jodhpurs flatter men of most ages in terms of shape, a pair with prominent leather knee-patches, contrasting trims, or a distressed style might be better for a younger man. “A crisp, classic khaki pair could befit someone older.”
Bhardwaj points to the global trend of “playing with proportions” and “looser volumes” in pants that top menswear designers are propagating. “At the menswear Spring Summer 2013 shows in Milan and Paris, I noticed a lot of interesting new voluminous pant styles — notably at Lanvin, Dries Van Noten and Louis Vuitton. And quite a few styles took inspiration cues from breeches — Dolce&Gabbana, in fact, showcased loose, calf-length styles, similar to those worn traditionally centuries ago.”
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Jodhpur pants, however, tend to suit “leaner men better”, says Bhardwaj of GQ. Not that short, pot-bellied men don’t have options, but they must follow a few cardinal rules while picking a pair. “Never wear Jodhpurs with a short shirt,” says Rathore. “Since the style of the trousers does break the leg in two-prominent volumes (looser on top, tighter below), they might not be very flattering on heftier body types,” says Bhardwaj. Also, avoid stark contrasts and choose monochromatic styling. “Wearing a dark shirt with dark pants gives a slicker, more slender look.”
“When wearing breeches, don’t over-accessorise. Don’t veer into the equestrian costume zone,” advises designer Kallol Datta. Overweight men, he cautions, must avoid Polos with Jodhpurs.
For the perfect pair, Bhardwaj recommends Rathore’s subtle design details; and for a fashion-forward vibe, Gaurav Gupta’s Jodhpore trousers with zippers, metallic trims, and cords. “I also recently saw an interesting pair by Narendra Kumar — he’s interpreted the jodhpuri style in dark denim, with top-stitch lines and some striking details.”
Designer Rajesh Pratap Singh’s twill enzyme-washed Jodhpur pants, part of his “Sting” collection — they were donned by Sting at a concert in 2012 — are another trendy option, available for Rs 9,950. If you’re looking for casual cotton prints, opt for Aneeth Arora’s colourful, unisex Jodhpurs — the woollen range starts at Rs 10,000, and cotton ones start at Rs 8,000.
“For a smarter vibe, throw on a well-tailored blazer,” says Bhardwaj. “In colder weather, a pair of fine Jodhpur trousers with snug-fitting cashmere turtleneck and evening jacket (think silk; velvet’s great too) looks quite swish.” For the casual look, pair khaki breeches with Polo t-shirts, or crisp cotton and gingham shirts. An added plus — it will make you stand out in a sea of straight cuts and skinny jeans.
