The (millimetre) measure of a cook

FOODIE

Or why Jiggs Kalra will never write "a pinch of..." in his books.

Much before becoming a food consultant became such a coveted profession, in the days pre-celebrity (TV) chefs, if there was one man who defined the Indian food scenario, it was Jiggs Kalra.

Kalra started out as a food columnist, encouraged by that other turbaned stalwart, Khushwant Singh, and soon turned consultant (pushing many a five-star fests and menus to the fore) and cookbook writer (certainly more authoritative than housewives-turned-hobby chefs who ruled the market in those days), with an abiding passion to rediscover India's culinary heritage.

Many years and debilitating illness later, that continues to be true even today. While a culinary biography, Zaike Ka Safar (Allied) "" with 100 best recipes "" is just out, Kalra remains spirited, now planning several coffee tablers in the months to come.

There are cookbooks on regional cooking too "" a book on Hyderabadi cuisine is on the anvil. And Kalra promises, "three more books and I will retire". Retire he may "" or not, more likely. But even if he does, cooking is unlikely to take a backseat with him.

Even now, every day, for dinner, Kalra likes to cook a dish himself "" yes, he does have well-trained staff at home and also a recently-acquired daughter-in-law who cooks him Continental dishes regularly; "thank god, she cooks", he says cheerfully.

But what is special this winter is that Kalra is making good use of the angeethi. "I will get those matti ki haandis (earthen pots) now," he promises, inviting one over, as always, for a "full meal" once that happens. "We did a meen moilee some days ago", he adds, referring to the mild Kerala fish curry, as well as an Alleppey prawn curry and thoran, beans garnished with coconut, a simpler dish.

Once those earthen pots are at home, Kalra is enthusiastic about also making some tahris, rice with vegetables or meats but without the masala. "But not biryani." When I ask why, ever the perfectionist "" he is, after all, famous for measuring out the last gram in a pinch of turmeric "" he tells me that biryanis, having more spice, require more "control of the fire", possible only in a metal dish.

Kalra's favourite, however, remains Meat Beliram, a lamb curry attributed to Lahore's Beliram, the king of cooks, pre-partition. "This was a recipe discovered by Madan Lal Jaiswal (the legendary ITC chef who opened Bukhara) and while I was doing Prashaad (Kalra's authoritative tome that has now sold almost 3.6 million copies) I got it from him." It is an easy recipe to do, Kalra feels, so do try this one out.

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MEAT BELIRAM

1.2 kg spring lamb (assorted cuts)
500 gm onions, 50 gm garlic
5 cloves
Salt
125 gm ghee
600 ml yoghurt
70 gm ginger, 10 chhoti elaichi
2 sticks cinnamon, 10 gm Kashmiri deghi mirch
15 gm coriander seeds

Preparation
The lamb: Clean and cut breast and saddle into 1 1/2 inch chunks; clean chops.
The yoghurt: Whisk in a large bowl.
The vegetables: Peel, wash, and slice onions. Scrape, wash and finely chop ginger. Peel and chop garlic.
The marination: Mix all the ingredients, except coriander seeds and ghee, with yoghurt and leave the lamb chunks in the marinade for 1 hour 45 minutes.

Cooking
Heat ghee in a haandi, add coriander seeds and saute over medium heat until they begin to crackle. Transfer the lamb, along with the marinade, bring to a boil, stirring constantly, then cover and simmer, stirring at regular intervals, until the meat is tender. Uncover, increase to medium heat and bhunno until the fat leaves the masala. Adjust the seasoning.

To serve
Remove to a dish and serve with tandoori roti.