Indian wines are doing very well at international wine fairs.
The year 2010 could well be the ‘inflection point’ for Indian wine exports, what with as many as eight wineries participating in the London International Wine Fair (LIWF) held last month, with the active encouragement of the newly-constituted Indian Grape Processing Board (which operates under the Ministry of Food Processing Industries).
The companies all shared space in a single ‘India Pavilion’. Participants reported a buzz around the stalls as visitors jostled for tastings — few had imagined wine being produced in India. Most were pleasantly surprised by the decent quality of the desi drop.
The participating wineries (by vintage), all from Maharashtra, were:
Indage Vintners
The grand dame of Indian wine companies, Indage (then known as ‘Champagne India Ltd’) started operations in 1982 and launched ‘Marquise de Pompadour’ in 1986 in India. This Methode Champenoise sparkling wine is being exported under the Omar Khayyam label. The market leader in India till 2009, Indage was the pioneering exporter of wines, particularly to the UK. Look for a new beginning under MD Ranjit Chougule towards the end of 2010.
Sula (Nashik Vintners)
The launch of Sula’s Satori merlot, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc in October 1999 took Bombay (as it was then) by storm: international quality wines at Indian prices! It’s the market leader now, and exports wines under the Sula label — its wines are doing particularly well in Japan. The company has both gone upwards (their ‘Rasa’ retails at Rs 1,080 in Mumbai) and downwards, with a lower-priced range of wines under the Madera, Samara and Port 1000 labels. Owner and MD Rajeev Samant rocks, in many ways!
Renaissance Winery
One of the first units set up under the new Grape Processing Industry Policy of 2001, Renaissance’s eponymous wine hit retail shelves in 2005, and survived the 2009 downturn by outsourcing production to Diageo India and the UB Group.
Vintage Wines
When they launched their Reveilo wines in 2006 they were the highest-priced Indian wines: in particular the quality of their Chardonnay (the only Indian varietal) and their Cabernet Sauvignon quickly gained a loyal group of consumers. Having nearly 200 acres of family-owned vineyards helps — they recently launched the first Italian varietals (Nero d’Avola and Sangiovese). Expect good things from owners Yatin and Kiran Patil.
Mercury Winery
Veral Pancholia’s labels (Aryaa range, Ex Shiraz, and Mex Rose) are Indian in design. They became quite the rage in certain circles when launched in 2007, and are already exported to over six countries.
Four Seasons
Four Seasons’s winery is at Baramati, the only participant from outside the Nasik area. A flagship wine company of the UB Group, with the wines named after the company (or was it the other way round?!), business head and winemaker Abhay Kewadkar has long term plans, with Rs 50 crore invested in operations, and sales already spread across 10 states. For overseas markets, the label will be called Ritu as the existing name was probably not deemed ‘Indian’ enough.
Valee de Vin
Launched in 2009, the wines under the Zampa label is part of the third wave of wine companies: professionally run, with world-class facilities and not to forget outstanding marketing. Owners Ravi Jain and Deepak Roy are serious players in the liquor industry.
York Winery
A picture-book winery amid vineyards rolling down to the Gangapur lake. Owner Ravi Gurnani is the archetypal entrepreneur whose enthusiasm is contagious. Their wines will be exported under the Mantra label.
The piece de resistance for Indian participants at the LIWF was a ‘Masterclass’ conducted by the internationally-known wine expert Steven Spurrier, with one wine each from nine wineries (Grover had been late registering for the LIWF but managed to submit a wine for this tasting). It was such a draw that there was standing room only.
So the next time you land up at an Indian restaurant in London, Paris, or New York and ask for an Indian wine you will not be disappointed!
[Alok Chandra is a Bangalore-based wine consultant. The views expressed are his own]
