Birbal’s silverware, Tipu Sultan’s palanquin, the chair Nehru broke and a treasure trove of anecdotes. You should make that trip to Patna just to visit Quila House
Not many would guess that Patna, with its provincial air, is home to an enviable collection of historic antiques and ceramics. Since 1930, the Jalan collection, housed in a private residence named Quila House in old Patna, has been made open by appointment— in a genteel, semi-private fashion — to the public. Renowned for its collection of objets d’art and antiques, the collection has acquired the aura of a discreetly protected family legend, sustained over the years by successive heirs. I visit it on a damp pre-monsoon morning, and as I am led in by several attendants, am struck by an exquisite hookah said to be from emperor Jehangir’s time, dripping streams of sparkling green stones.
Objets d’art
Napoleon III’s bed, Tipu Sultan’s palanquin, a cabinet that belonged to King Henry II of France, ivory carvings from the Patna School, Birbal’s thalis, ancient Persian glazed tiles and other unique antiques are quietly showcased, in this tranquil property by the Ganga. “The fifth generation of the Jalan family now lives here,” says Aditya Jalan, whimsical heir and one of the current co-owners of the graceful old family house and considerable estate, “and we continue to have as many as 2,000 visitors a year.” Some objects have been assessed by the Archaeological Survey of India, says Aditya. And the Quila House website mentions that a part of the collection has been donated to the National Museum, where presumably, they have been assessed and valued.
Guest list
Built on a small portion of the foundations of Afghan ruler Sher Shah Suri’s fort (constructed in 1541 AD), this large bungalow and its considerable grounds were bought by Dewan Bahadur Radha Krishna Jalan in 1919 from the Nawab of Gaya, whom he met on the train to Patna. Previously, the property is said to have belonged to the East India Company, according to the in-house publication.
Three Prime Ministers of India, three Presidents of India, four viceroys, Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi, Maneka Gandhi, Morarji Desai, Osho, the actress Mary Pickford, author and economist JK Galbraith (while he was US Ambassador to India), Bihar’s leading politicians, three Nepali kings, Bollywood stars and many other important people have all visited Quila House. There is a charming story about a chair Nehru broke, while looking at an old clock; and the proof is showcased in the collection, a delicate looking chair with a broken back.
Visitors have come — and continue to come — from far away, to see the Jalan collection. The prince of Kuwait, Aditya reveals, was flown in, in his private jet, for a special visit. Indeed, there is much to attract the wealthy Arab collector in this collection of ceramics, silverware, jade, silver filigree, porcelain services and furniture spanning both centuries and continents.
Photojournalist Don McCullin discovered Quila House some time ago and plans another visit this year. Now in his eighties, this may be his last. Adventurer Mark Shand, author of Travels with Elephants, famously came to stay with his elephants — “The first time we had animals as guests!” exclaims Aditya. Tara, one of the elephants, is featured in a picture of the family, and eventually returned to Madhya Pradesh.
Not for profit
The collection is not a commercial enterprise, and its curators have not had to do much to cultivate its appeal. Many of its visitors have had relationships with the family down several generations, or hear of it by word of mouth and gain a personal introduction to the Jalans. Quila House is, of course, open to anyone who asks nicely, and dignitaries aside, scores of locals and schoolchildren visit regularly, making up at least half the traffic. Children enjoy tours and picnics; the grounds are considered an especially safe outdoor area for young girls in Patna.
Aditya is a traditionally munificent Indian host, proferring chai and Marwari treats (the Jalans are a proud Marwari family) and qualifying invites to Quila House with one condition; a promise to lunch with his family. “You are taking something from me, so I must take something from you — your time,” he quips.
How often does he look at the collection, himself? When it rains, he tells me, he spends his afternoons in the rooms that house them; not purely for nostalgic reasons, but to check on the damage the damp might be doing. His father is also adding more to the current collection, at his own expense, which may require an additional structure to be added to the house; the bulk of the collection is housed in the room that greets you upon approach and the adjoining suite of drawing rooms, and the family lives in the rest of the house.
RK Jalan’s legacy
Casually fastidious and properly proud of the legacy his great-grandfather left behind, Aditya speaks fondly of the grand old days. The venerable RK Jalan, who began his habit of collecting beautiful things at 12 with his coin collection, continued to pursue his penchant for acquiring the world’s most striking curios as he travelled extensively through Europe. He worked closely with the British throughout his business career, playing host to them in his spacious drawing room — which functioned also as ballroom, while the ladies of the house received visitors in purdah — and earning the title of ‘Dewan Bahadur’. When the British left and bribery gained its stronghold over business dealings, RK Jalan bowed out of business, refusing to agree to pave his way in this manner, to advance the family’s fortunes.
Family lore
He was known for his hospitality, putting his guests up in the four-bedroom Italian marble guesthouse, and insisting that only the family Rolls-Royce — the only one of its kind in India at the time — would service visitors. In the fifties and sixties, these visitors included such glamorous Bollywood stars as Sunil Dutt, Prithviraj Kapoor, Raj Kapoor and Nargis; the latter two, famously, were ambushed in the car and the mob was so eager to see their idols that one of the car windows was broken, in the melee. “I have to thank my great-grandfather; because of him I have met many great people and they want to spend time with me,” says Aditya.
I leave with an invitation to stay in his charming guest house, overlooking the tranquil Ganga, a few feet from the treasures of the Jalan house: an invitation few would be able to resist. n
[Rajni George is a freelance writer]
