The Pashtun food is geared primarily for endurance.
Not even a few minutes of news goes by these days without a mention of the Taliban, even as the “war on terror” finds itself further entangled in the dusty mountains of western Pakistan and eastern Afghanistan. This is the land that is home to the rugged Pashtun people. It is a region with very little fertile soil and a very brief agricultural season. So what does it take to keep a Taliban fighter going in this inhospitable terrain with very little nourishment? After all, it is said that an army marches on its stomach.
Central to the Pashtun cuisine is bread. Bread is either made from maize or wheat, depending on the crop that is grown in the region. There are many types of breads and while naan is the most common, there’s also the thin lavash and finally the obi-non which is said to have originated in Uzbekistan. The naan is considered to be a softer bread usually served in homes. But breads such as the obi-non and the lavash are preferred in poorer areas and for travelling. These breads are made from a mixture of wheat and white flour and has sesame and poppy seeds sprinkled on it.
The breads are usually prepared, rolled and carried in muslin cloth. The dry air in the region strips away the moisture from the bread very fast, leaving it paper dry. This helps in preserving the bread for weeks together. The bread is a source of instant calories as it is pure carbohydrate. Accompaniments to the dry bread are equally rugged.
The speciality of this region and its people is their ability to preserve food with very little effort. An assortment of pickles are prepared with fruits, vegetable and meat. The ingredients are first thoroughly dried in the heat of the sun. They are then soaked in vinegar with spices. When glass jars are available the pickles are carried in them, otherwise it is common to wrap the bread around the pickle and carry it. The bread soaks in the juice of the pickle and is ready to munch. Also, dry fruits such as walnuts, raisins and almonds are carried as they too are said to be a rich source of calories.
When there is sufficient time for a rest, mostly a feast is in order. That means the pulao. There is a mind boggling number of types of pulao that are prepared. In fact, the Qaboli Pulao is the national dish of Afghanistan.
