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The Lonely Planet guide describes Khajuraho as a place on the way from nowhere to nowhere, which is a fair description given that it's miles away from any national highway and hides in a little corner of north-western Madhya Pradesh.

However, make the effort to get there and you will be treated to some top-rung temple architecture that's become famous for you-know-what.

There are any number of theories about why some of the temples are covered with erotic carvings, but it's probably best to treat them as mysteries wrapped in an enigma and simply enjoy them for what they are "� superbly executed art.

Khajuraho is about 550 km from Delhi and some stretches of road are terrible, but otherwise it's an OK drive. Try Hotel Zen (Ph: 07686-274228, Rs 400 onwards), which is good value.

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