Something interesting is happening in the wine space in the metro cities in India: the emergence of small groups of people who are getting together to sample and talk about top-end wines, to the accompaniment of dishes that are consciously paired with the wines on offer. Let's call them "Wine Connoisseurs" - they know their wines, and are willing to make an effort to expand this knowledge.
This trend is being driven by both wine importers as well as wine consumers themselves. The wines could be either from the importer's portfolio or from the private collection(s) of the people involved - never mind that technically it is still not legal in most Indian states to have more than a few bottles in your cellar, even for your personal consumption.
Wine importer Brindco conducts wine programmes at select star hotels around the country where visiting wine makers or winery owners offer their expert insights about wines from their wineries. One such event in January 2013 at the Leela Palace Bengaluru featured HRH Prince Robert de Luxembourg and wines from Domaine Clarence Dillon at a mere Rs 10,000 per head for a select audience of 40 - including guests who flew in from Hyderabad and Chennai just for the evening.
The Chaine de Rotisseurs (Bengaluru and Goa) organises signature dinners for its members. This international association (with roots in France going back to 1248 CE) held its Grand Induction Ceremony on May 1 at the Ritz-Carlton Bengaluru, whose dinner included lobster en croute, Yuzu marinated Whelk, Unagi and Octopus, and slow-roasted tenderloin, Jerusalem artichoke and asparagus, along with Donnhoff Riesling Torcken, Dominio del Plata Crios Malbec and a Moët & Chandon Brut Rose.
In keeping with the spirit of things, there was a dinner last Friday at Le Cirque Bengaluru's Private Dining Room, organised by The Wine Connoisseurs, a Bengaluru-based group. This was a landmark seven-course dinner with 14 wines from the private collection of one of the members to mark his 50th birthday. The menu was crafted by Sous Chef Mir Zafar Ali at the instigation of foodie Chetan Kamani and wine professional Sneha Rao and included such gastronomic gems as Alaskan King Crab, Salmon Tartare, Lamb Trotters with Morels, and a unique Wagyu steak smoked with hay.
Of course, the wines were outstanding: starting with two vintages of the Pouilly Fuisse Vieilles from Domaine Cordier to a Bollinger Champagne, they progressed to a Cakebread Cellars Pinot Noir 2013 and a Gevry Chambertin 2008 from Domaine Humbert Freres, before finishing off with a Chateau Kirwan 2004, a Pavillion de Chateau margaux 2004 and a Chateau Maontlena Estate Cab 1994! In between came a few "mystery wines": a Krsma Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2013 and a Grover La Reserve 2010, both Indian wines holding their own to their imported bretheren; at the very end was a Tattinger Brut Reserve with the dessert cake.
Wine connoisseurs and events like these are redefining fine dining in India. While these are exclusive and expensive affairs, they are another brick in the wall against drinking for the sake of getting drunk. Let's hope more people join the movement.
Wines I've been drinking: The best of the lot was undoubtedly the Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 (from Napa Valley, California), rated 95 points ("extraordinary") by Wine Spectator and retailing now at anywhere between $140 and $275 per bottle. An amazing wine, with complex aromas of berries, dark chocolate and jam, and a layered full-bodied taste with silky tannins that went on and on. We just couldn't get enough of the stuff, even after so many other wines - thank you Devesh, I'll always be there to help you make place in your wine chiller.
Alok Chandra is a Bengaluru-based wine consultant
