Wrinkle-free business

The anti-ageing industry booms as consumers choose to defy nature's diktat

At Kaya Skin Clinics the demand for anti-ageing treatment has grown three times since the launch of the skin care chain.

Of the 45 new skin care products introduced by the Swedish direct selling company Oriflame in India since January, 15 belong in the anti-ageing category.

VLCC, the weight loss clinic chain, has launched a Rs 4,500 signature skin care brand, 'I by Vandana Luthra'"" complete anti-ageing system comprising six skin care products.

We may not be able to stop time but we can arrest ageing. That's the promise cosmetics companies and skin care clinics in India are making to people. And a generation of people hooked on to the concept of "looking good and feeling great" are lapping up the products and services offered to help them look young.

Though no audited data is available, the anti-ageing segment is said to be close to Rs 200 crore of the Rs 1,200 crore skin care industry. Cosmetics companies and beauty clinics admit that it's a small but high growth segment and they are ready to bet their money on it.

"The Indian woman's attitude towards skin care is no longer one of indulgence but that of neccessity. Personal grooming is now a critical social skill. Hence, a natural growth in the segment," says Vandana Luthra, chairman of the Rs 130 crore health and beauty company, VLCC.

Rakesh Pandey, CEO of Kaya Treatment Clinic says Kaya has recently introduced Skin Age Analysis Index to advise on the requirements of the skin. Some of the other age- control solutions offered at Kaya include skin tightening, photo-facial TM, non-surgical face lift and wrinkle reduction using botox.

Luthra claims that the demand for her anti-ageing products has shot up so much that the three VLCC production units in Dehradun, Haridwar and Delhi are unable to cope with the pressure.

"The anti-ageing market has really taken off in a big way," agrees Oriflame CEO Thomas Erickson. "About one third of Oriflame's sales come from skin care and anti-ageing accounts for more than 30 per cent of that," he adds. Demand for such products in India matches that in Europe, but Indians are more price sensitive and prefer smaller packages, he says.

In the next two months Oriflame will launch three new anti-ageing products- Time Prevent range, Express Repair Day Cream and Time Reversing Eye Cream.

Even L'Oreal has extended its range of anti-ageing products in the last 10 years. "It's interesting to see how this market has evolved since we launched our first anti-wrinkle cream in 1994," says a L'Oreal executive.

L'Oreal has recently launched a range of Novadiol products for hormonal ageing (post menopausal women) in addition to its existing range of Reti·C brand of corrective creams.

Revlon, meanwhile, is also test marketing its age-defying products. Refusing to divulge details for now, Rakesh Bhandari, associate director, Modi Revlon, says "Colour segment remains our forte but we plan to take up skin care and anti-ageing as well now," he adds.

Doctors' verdict

What do dermatologists have to say about high priced products and treatments that promise not just delay but even reversal of the ageing process of the skin? Most experts claim a good sunscreen, containing antioxidants (particularly vitamins C and E), is important for the skin.

Protecting the skin helps prevent the signs of aging, they say, besides it is cheaper. Ageing generally occurs on two accounts "" photo-ageing caused by the ultra violet rays of the sun and chronological ageing which is the actual biological age of the person.

The two combine to act on the elasticity of the skin, says Dr Sanjiv Kandhari, consultant dermatologist at Batra and Escorts hospitals. Ingredients like Retinoic acid, alpha hydroxides and beta hydroxides have been scientifically proven to reduce wrinkles and fine lines after consistent use of say six to eight months, he adds.

Agrees Dr Sanjiv Gulati consultant dermatologist at Spring Medows hospital in Delhi, "Formulations based on hyaluronic acid fill up the grooves and stimulate collagen which gives a younger look." But manufacturers need to be careful about the right quality and quantity of formulations used, he warns.

While costly anti-ageing treatments like fillers and botox are generally successful, they can end up causing severe damage if not administered rightly. "People do run the risk of harming their skin in their attempt to fight nature by shunning wrinkles and fine lines," concludes Kandhari.