It’s mid-August in Goa. The sand is damp beneath my feet as I walk along Candolim beach. The skies are grey and empty. And so is the land. I finally spot one gentleman at a distance. He’s armed with a stick and seems to be persuading strays to move along. He glares at me as I draw closer. “Private beach area, sir,” he says.
He proves to be the guard at the Taj Holiday Village and Spa resort, a touristy extravagance that brings thousands to Goa every year. Once he loosens up, I ask about the empty beach and he