A 'heritage walk' reveals another fascinating side of Amritsar's history

Amritsar has a quaint and prosaic commercial history

In Amritsar, Punjab Tourism doesn’t hide its light under a bushel but behind a fire truck in a dusty corner of the magnificent Town Hall. Tacked on to a glass door is a handwritten sign offering a “heritage walk”, the timings and a mobile number.

This unlovely old city has a heritage beyond the Golden Temple, Jallianwala Bagh and the traumas of Partition? Intrigued and with time to spare, we call to book ourselves on the 5 pm tour. Just turn up, says the voice on the phone, so we show up 15 minutes ahead just in case tickets are