The white-hot rays of the sun touched the high-altitude desert terrain with a sharp, silvery light. Craggy mountains had given way to more rounded snow-capped dunes, and although the thin air indicated we were really high up in the Himalayas, the other-worldly landscape seemed paradoxically flat. Then, we turned a corner. The Chandrabhaga River came into view dizzyingly far below, a blue-green ribbon bisecting the valley. “We’re close to Kunzum Pass now,” says our driver. “Wear your jackets and scarves, it’s going to get windy…” Soon we were at what seemed like the top of the world, marked simply by