Some years ago, a Londoner backpacking her way through a clutch of Indian cities was in Delhi, pausing while deciding where to go next. Commanded by the spirit of hospitality one is expected to showcase to guests, the day’s breakfast at her host’s home comprised a feast of sandwiches, pancakes, eggs, breads, spreads. Our guest didn’t touch any of it.
Instead, she took out her phone to show her hosts a picture of Bisi Bele Bhaat, a dish made of rice and lentils that a Kannadiga grandmother had whipped up for her in Bengaluru. Minus the vegetarian take, the dish reminded