It’s a sign from the heavens — a bright, sunny day after two days of rain. Jets manned by the Swiss air force thunder overhead, swooping over the serrated mountains and plunging deep between valleys. As we rush to occupy our seats to watch the final parade, a farmer and his family in traditional garb walk with their prized possessions — stocky cows with humungous bells around their necks, as well as goats and sheep. A small boy leads a frisky Appenzell goat with long white hair and no horns. Men in breeches hold cow bells and jangle them in