Chanderi saris patent may hit weavers

The registration of Chanderi saris under the Geographical Indication of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999, has raised many questions.

Chanderi saris cannot be copied because of their exclusive design and the special silk yarn that goes into their making.

Sari weavers will hardly benefit from the registration because they will face restrictions in changing designs, if needed at all. Traditional Chanderi saris have a plane base. Dots or motifs of zari are placed at regular intervals to make a uniform design. The same design is used on the pallu and the hem of the sari.

From the weavers' point of view, migrating from one process to another will result in an infringement of the Act. This may attract legal action. The customers may also be confused.

Located strategically on the borders of Malwa and Bundelkhand, Chanderi was dominated by the trade routes of central India.

The state government has apparently made claims that "China has badly affected the local weaving industry by manufacturing Banarasi and Kanjivaram saris at lower costs."

Chanderi weavers use imported silk from China, South Korea, and Japan. The yarn is not de-gummed, thus lending more shine to Chanderi saris, but at the same time making them less durable. The gum produced by mulberry silk worms hardens and breaks after some time.

"Chanderi weavers do not use silk produced in MP or other parts of India, since we do not produce silk less than 18 deniers. Chanderi sari weavers use 14-16 denier silk, which is rare in India or even in the world," said a source in the rural industries department.

"The Chinese can replicate Chanderi saris for two reasons: Chanderi weavers have not changed their patterns, and they are also reluctant to use de-gummed silk," a source added.

After Basmati rice, Darjeeling tea, Kanchipuram silk saree, Alphanso mango, Nagpur orange, Kolhapuri chappal, Bikaneri bhujia and Agra petha, Chanderi has found its name in the "intellectual property" list.

Now, Chanderi saris do not face any threat but in the future every change in design will have be registered afresh. This will also affect poor weavers in various areas of southern Madhya Pradesh like Paratsingha and Sausar. The weavers will have to register their products under the same act. The registration will be valid up to ten years.

Chanderi saris are mostly available at government-owned Mrignayani showrooms. Their price ranges from Rs 300 to Rs 50,000. Simple Chanderi saris weigh about 200 gm, while those with RICJ designs and heavy zari work may weigh up to a kg.