"You went to Bombay after seven years, and you didn't see the Gateway of India? Or Film City? Or Chowpatty? Or any stars?"
Nope, I confessed.
So, demanded my Delhi-based friend, what had I seen?
Bookstores, I confessed even more sheepishly. She sighed and crossed me off the list of invitees for her millennium party.
If only she'd let me explain that it wasn't my fault.
"So," a colleague had said before I left for Bombay, "don't forget to check out Strand." "You must drop in at Lotus," said a co-traveller, "it's got all the really serious books." "Crossword Bombay is a fun store to visit," I was informed by my host in Bombay. "Hey, X said you're into books," said a friendly journalist, "have you been to Smoker's Corner yet?" "There are great bargains to be found around Flora Fountain," commented a car-mad chap at a party, "but of course you know that already."
Two days later, the tone was a trifle more severe. ("You haven't been to Lotus yet?" said the host. "Oh...") Clearly, the few shreds of professional reputation that I aspire to were in mortal danger. So I sallied forth. Many footsore and budget-wrecking days later, here's a completely subjective and probably useless take on bookshops in Bombay. Naturally, all additions, corrections and comments would be greatly appreciated.
The Strand is one of the oldest bookshops in town; to say that it's worth visiting is like saying that the Taj is worth a dekko if ever you're in Agra. Its owner's policy of discounts and willingness to talk books ensures a steady stream of regulars, long-term loyalists and tourists paying obeisance at the shrine. The selection is eclectic, and though it may lack depth in certain areas (contemporary fiction, for example), it's wide enough for most to be satisfied.
Crossword, on the other hand, is the upstart with the fancy location in Mahalakshmi. The hardcore book snob isn't always to be found there, but it does attract readers looking for a wide selection under one roof. And first-time book buyers tend to head here, tempted as much by music, CD-ROMs and the coffee as by the books. Handwritten notes by bookstore employees and the odd browser offer an entertaining if uneven reading list, while the children's section allows kids to play as well as read. An even newer kid on the block, Fountainhead, is just a short walk down the road at mega-mall Crossroads. It's not a bad bookshop, but there isn't much space for browsers, thanks to the sheer volume of tourists who swing in and out on their way to purchase Swarovski crystal in bulk.
Lotus in Bandra is mind-blowing _ it's run by a bunch of guys whose mission in life is to source the books other stores won't touch because publishers cheer when their sales figures move into double digits. They do have a paperback section, though I failed to find anyone who actually admitted to buying a Grisham from there. The gaddis where you can curl up with a pile of books for hours without being disturbed are a great idea (especially if you're wearing high heels that have decided they hate your feet). A word of warning, though: resist temptation and bypass Lotus if you're on a budget _ even the section of discounted books doesn't mask the fact that most of the books that set you drooling have serious price tags attached.
For cheaper bargains, it's a toss-up between the pavements where the Dishevelled Dictionary jostles for space with Muscle; and Smoker's Corner. The latter, a short distance from Victoria Terminus, offers a great selection of second-hand books in mint condition at prices varying from Rs 30 to Rs 200 or thereabouts. David Guterson, T Coraghessen Boyle, Salinger for the price of a pack of cigarettes with a vada-pau thrown in? It sounded like a great trade-off to me.
Near Metro Circle, the New and Secondhand Bookstore brought back all the pleasures of browsing in Calcutta's le
