In Kabul's liberating cafes, 'women make the culture, not men'

Trendy new cafes have sprung up across Kabul in the past three years, evolving into emblems of women's progress

On some days, life as a young woman in Kabul can feel suffocating for Hadis Lessani Delijam, a 17-year-old high school senior. Once, a man on the street harangued her for her makeup and Western clothes; they are shameful, he bellowed. A middle-aged woman cursed her for strolling and chatting with a young man.

“She called me things that are so terrible I can’t repeat them,” Delijam said.

For solace, Delijam retreats to an unlikely venue — the humble coffee shop. “This is the only place where I can relax and feel free, even if it’s only for a few hours,” Delijam