Olive oil manufacturers want to go gourmet, but shoppers aren't buying

While big producers sell most of their olive oil in bulk, more are dedicating a portion of their output to select varieties that are bottled and labeled for a gourmet feel

In the rugged Tras-os-Montes region of northern Portugal, Vitor Baptista braves frosty mornings and long drives from his home near Lisbon to pursue the sentimental goal of transforming olive oil into something more than a condiment.

The 46-year-old construction manager started the Arvolea brand three years ago and hopes to one day devote himself full time to creating oils with almond notes and balanced acidity from his small grove of Santulhana olive trees, some of which are more than 100 years old. But his dream of breathing new life into his family’s tradition risks colliding with the cold realities of