Economic liberalisation might have robbed aspiring towns of their provinciality, but Baroda in the latter decades of the 20th century was as claustrophobic as only a small town can be. It was not a city where you could hide, or keep secrets, but Bhupen Khakhar did both. More even than the fear of being outed as homosexual was the anxiety of the morality brigade, surrounded as he was by the trade and commerce of any small town — the barber, fruit seller, grocer, tailor, watch repairer, mendicant and, inevitably, the neighbour. Within this slightly squalid world, desire existed at a