To the fallen soldier: On the trail of a World War I campaign in Gallipoli

Marked with graves of fallen soldiers, the Turkish peninsula of Gallipoli is a land of memorials.

Please let me know if any one of you has relatives buried on the peninsula, and I’ll try my best to take you there.” These are the first words our guide, Burak, says to our group of 19. Burial was the last thing on my mind on the five-hour picturesque bus ride I’d just been on from Istanbul to Eceabat, passing through rolling countryside by the beautiful Sea of Marmara, and then by the Dardanelles (Turkish name Çanakkale Boðazý) and finally into the Gallipoli peninsula (Gelibolu Yarimadasi). This peninsula gave its name to a legendary battle theatre 104 years ago