Rinshad Hussein works at the Tea Bungalow in Fort Kochi as a bellboy and waiter. The 24-year-old has recently been selected for a bodybuilding competition in the state. When he learns that I am there for a holiday — and have timed it with the art biennale — Hussein is delighted. He presents me with a pamphlet and map of the various locations that house the art this year and tells me his own sketches were part of the last biennale in 2014. He happened to help one of the foreign artists who was staying at the hotel he was
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