My first meeting with Manish Mehrotra at his acclaimed restaurant Indian Accent a few years ago was inauspicious. The managing director for Asia of my former employer, the Financial Times, visiting from Hong Kong, had asked me to book a table. After repeated calls, I finally secured a table for the second dinner sitting. We duly arrived — to find the restaurant a third empty because of a number of no-show customers. Dinner, however, was delicious, featuring Western-style plating and their style of distilling sauces melded with Indian regional cuisines. When Mehrotra came by for his customary post-dinner chat, the