In the midst of drinks last Saturday with an ex-colleague, the conversation took an unexpected turn. If he wanted to return to India, his wife declared, he would need to hire a secretary or marry again because she never wanted to be involved in applying for an Indian visa again. She was joking of course, but it was a reminder of how difficult the process of getting permissions to travel to India even in an age of electronic visas. My friend’s rites of passage had been complicated by the fact that he used to be a foreign correspondent in this
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