Shekhar Gupta: Modi's new 'mandir' project

Modi has boldly ventured to redevelop Varanasi's messy, filthy inner city. It's a restoration project that can delight his large Hindu constituency

Writings on the Wall is metaphor that grew out of my travels, mostly through the poll-bound regions of India and the neighbourhood over the past 15 years. Because, even more than its big festivals, the subcontinent comes to life during its elections. And what’s on people’s minds, their aspirations, joys, concerns and fears, you can pretty much understand by reading these writings on the wall. These can be graffiti, advertising, skylines, fences, or, even rubble.

You want to see change in Varanasi, you walk on fresh rubble, a lone bulldozer is labouring on yards away, and look at the walls. Don’t