At Varanasi's Bhisasur Ghat, you are greeted and escorted to a ride on a Bajra or traditional wooden boat across the placid waters of the Ganga. It's the only way to get to the other side of the Darbhanga Ghat, where the magnificent hotel property called BrijRama Palace stands. Once you reach the shore, you receive a traditional welcome with tikka (vermillion) and a rudraksh mala. As you go up the elevator, you will hear accounts of how the lift, said to be the oldest in South Asia, was installed back in 1918 to help the king get to the