Rakashabandhan in Uttarakhand's Kumaon region has a unique attraction, an age old custom of stone fight which has now got a fruity twist.
Enthusiastic spectators climb the rooftops and occupy the temple steps to watch the 'Bagwal' (fight) as zealous Ranbankuras, sporting headbands and carrying huge bamboo shields, pour into the Dubachaur field in front of Barahi Devi temple with their ammunition to please a local deity.
But the stones have gradually been replaced by fruits and flowers after the authorities, a few years back, banned stones due to injuries during the event which is held in Champawat district's Devidhura village.
The Bagwal has its origins in mythology, said Hemlata Joshi, an elderly resident of the area.
"It is believed that the land of Devidhura village belonged to Goddess Barahi. With the passage of time, four clans or Khams started using it for cultivation. The Khams were named Balig, Chamyal, Gaharwal and Lamgharia."
They were blessed with a good crop and to thank the goddess they began the annual practice of offering her a Nar Bali (human sacrifice), she said.
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A healthy male was chosen in rotation from different families of each Kham and the practice continued till it was the turn of an old woman to sacrifice her only grandson, Joshi added.
When she prayed to the goddess to spare him, the goddess called for a Bagwal, a fight with stones among the four Khams, which was to be held as an alternative, she said.
Goddess Barahi agreed to spare her grandson if the woman was able to offer the same amount of blood as of an average man, Joshi said.
Since then, people belonging to the khams celebrate by pelting each other with stones, Joshi said.
Traditionally the Bagwal started with the temple priest offering prayers in the temple complex. Then he presented her with the commanders of the four Khams who, after receiving her blessings, lead their Khams into the battleground.
Once they enter the ground, singing and dancing to hymns, they are each allotted one of the four corners by the priest who signals the start of the Bagwal with a conch, she said.
The Runbaukuras (the participants) then start pelting stones at one another while trying to shield themselves from the onslaught with bamboo shields or Farras.
This continues until the priest is satisfied that enough blood has been shed. The sound of the conch for the second time marks the end of the match.
Champawat District Magistrate Deependra Chaudhary however, over the past few years, Bagwal has seen a major change.
"The long-standing practice of pelting stones was widely opposed and thereby, stopped by the authorities. Initially, it was not received well by the Ranbankuras who came equipped with stones. Warriors and sometimes even onlookers were injured during the fights," he said.
The official said it was not easy to abolish the old tradition and the practice was given up reluctantly by the Khams.
"But, as more than 20,000 devotees collectively opposed this practice, the Runbankuras finally started using fruits and flowers instead of the traditional stones," he said.
"Not only did this prevent grievous injuries, it also gave the event a fruity twist by making it look more like the local version of the Spanish festival of Tomatina," the district magistrate said.
As for the festival being held on the occasion of Rakshbandhan, Joshi said it is an auspicious day when the Hindus change their janeu (sacred thread).
The warriors were selected a day earlier to participate in the Bagwal. They were expected to maintain purity in their conduct and meals as it is believed that blood shed from an impure Ranbankura would infuriate the goddess and cause hardships to people.
Goddess Barahi Devi is held in great reverence by the people of Devidhura and other places nearby.
Kirti Shastri, the head priest of the Barahi Devi Temple said,"When Lord Vishnu reincarnated in twelve avatars in order to save the world, Goddess Laxmi also reincarnated as his wife. The unification of her twelve avatars resulted in the form of Barahi Devi."
"Another unique feature of the goddess is that she is Digamber (unclothed). To protect this state no one is allowed to lay eyes upon her," he said.
Her idol is always held in a copper box in the temple premises and when it is brought out once a year during the festival, the priest is required to blindfold himself in order to give her a bath, he said.
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