Lucknow prey to Chinese designs

Unable to keep up with international trends, the chikan industry struggles to reinvent itself.

Chikan work, a name synonymous with the city of Nawabs, Lucknow, is facing a severe threat from manufacturers abroad, especially China. Of late, China has started manufacturing 'Chikankari', an art till now considered to be the exclusive preserve of Lucknow artisans.

"At first sight, there is a remarkable resemblance between the chikan work of Lucknow and the works labelled 'Made in China', but when viewed closely the difference is self-evident," explains Runa Banerji, Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of the Self Employed Women's Association (SEWA).

In the recent past, the Indian market has seen a tremendous flow of Chinese products. They have entered all segments of the domestic markets be it electronics or day-to-day items.

The Chinese products score because of their cheap prices and easy availability, though on the benchmark of quality they are often exposed. The same has applied in the Chikan industry as well.

Their artists have duplicated the age old craftsmanship but, the skill of stitch making remains unmatched for, in Lucknow the skill is not acquired but inherited by the artisans from their forefathers.

"Our customers in the US, Latin America, and other European countries need good quality Chikan work, where the stitches are clear. They do not get their orders done from other 'cheap' markets because the standard followed by Lucknow artisans is superior. This is a very happy sign for us,"explained Mansoor Lari, from Mia Dastkaar Zariwale, an exporter from Lucknow.

To match-up to international standards, the traditional Chikan work is in a stage of metamorphosis. The age-old technique of traditional designs and patterns has now been taken over by the modern and more fashionable designs.

The recognition of this sector worldwide has in particular brought about this change.

Chikankari today is not restricted to select cotton material but has evolved itself on almost any material, be it silk, georgette or linen. It's not even limited to apparel alone rather it is now being used for any fabric and for any purpose ranging from curtains to dress materials.

"Yes, we have evolved but Lucknow Chikan has more potential. We are very traditional in our approach even today. It is assumed that we can only do embroidery on a cotton cloth whereas one has to understand that a garment needs to be converted into a product to make it sell," expressed Lari. This trend according to him, is also now seen in the domestic market.

According to estimates, Chikan manufacturing in the state has 100,000 artisans engaged in it. Last year's exports from the state accounted for Rs 25,000 crore. The share of textile and ready-made garments, which also includes chikan clothes, was Rs 1,500 crore.

Almost every second household in rural Lucknow has family-members involved in this work. The earnings of a person on an average are in the range of Rs 50 to Rs 200 per day. The wages are primarily based on work-finesse and time taken by the individual.

According to Kaban Nawab, a supplier of Chikan material to export houses based at Delhi, a sari worth Rs 10,000, leaves over Rs 5,000 for the workers after deducting the costs of material, stitching, packing and others. Such a sari, Nawab said requires approximately 20 workers for 20 days to be completed. This means that the sum of Rs 5,000 gets distributed among those 20 workers.

Talks within the government and industry are on for acquiring a patent for this age-old skill, but a major problem that the industry faces is lack of a data bank. Lucknow's Chikan work is still essentially a cottage industry, the accounting of which is difficult. The figures available are only approximations.

The government of Uttar Pradesh is working very closely with the industry to save the glory of Chikankari.

The state government is all set to establish an export-promotion centre for Chikan Craft in Lucknow with the assistance of National Institute of Fashion Technology and Association of Chikan manufacturers of Lucknow.

According to UPEC, the exports are low mainly because of poor quality of stitching, lack of standardisation, lack of development of new designs and lack of improved washing and packing. Under the export-promotion scheme, interventions have been made to cope up with these problems by providing stitching machines, washing plants and design studio.

The standardised patterns shall be generated and facility of making wooden block for printing shall be provided to the industry. Work shops shall also be conducted with the help of NIFT to educate the industry regarding export procedures.

The exporters have urged the government to establish an Apparel Training Centre in the city judging by the potential for employment generation in this sector.