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While Indians today are being exposed to poultry meat from across the world, the author finds that indigenous chickens are just as good as far as meat quality is concerned
Chicken, for non-vegetarians in a staunchly vegetarian land like India, is the most popular type of meat to gorge on. In a country where beef and pork are still taboo in a large measure, and where fish and seafood do not enjoy as much popularity, poultry is the most easily available, tastiest and relatively healthier meat on offer.
The Indian chicken market has seen growth and development in the years post-liberalisation. From US multinational chains like KFC to South Africa's Nando’s to home players like Venky’s and Buddy's Broaster, the Indian consumer is now spoilt for choices as far as poultry flesh is concerned.
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However, chicken enthusiasts will vouch for the meat of native Indian breeds. There is a reason why indigenous chicken is tastier, explain scientists. “The meat of indigenous breeds is darker as it has more iron content. Consequently, they have more flavour than exotic breeds,” explains V V Kulkarni, director of the National Research Centre (NRC) in Hyderabad.
Popular belief in India holds that the meat of native poultry breeds acts as an aphrodisiac. However, Kulkarni debunks this view. “Yes, there are beliefs like that. However, till now, there is no scientific proof that such beliefs are true,” he adds.
Perhaps the best thing about native poultry chicken species is that they are hardy and well-adapted to the hot, dry and humid conditions of the subcontinent. This makes them more resistant to disease. “Most native breeds are resistant to some diseases, but not all. For instance, no breed has been found to be resistant to avian flu till now. They are all susceptible,” says R M Chatterjee of Project Directorate on Poultry in Hyderabad.
A disadvantage that native breeds have is that their meat and egg yields are low. Averaging 45-80 eggs a year, they compare rather poorly when compared to exotic foreign breeds like the white leghorn that has the capacity to lay up to 200 eggs per year or more.
Still, this disadvantage is balanced because of the fact that in the hot, summer months, exotic breeds, which are not disease-resistant, face problems of drop in egg production, show low feed efficiency, lay thin-shelled eggs and suffer high mortality due to heat stress.
In recent years, native breeds have faced a very real threat of extinction, prized as they are for their meat. “The government though, is making all-out efforts to save them. We are breeding them in such a way that not only would they lay more eggs to meet public demand, but would exist in enough numbers for them not to become extinct,” says J M Kataria, director, Central Avian Research Institute, Bareilly.
| THE MUST-TRY INDIAN CHICKEN |
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KADAKNATH DARK KNIGHT A highly prized bird, it has traditionally been reared by Bhil adivasis in MP’s Jhabua and Dhar districts. Its flesh is black due to melanin and is very juicy and considered an aphrodisiac. Kadaknaths were on the verge of extinction in the 1990s due to demand for its meat, but the numbers have stabilised now. ASEEL KING OF GAMECOCKS Though common across the subcontinent, its home tract is coastal Andhra Pradesh. The breed has long been used in South Asia as gamecocks. Aseel meat is highly valued by rural and urban dwellers, with prices per kilo live weight being 50-100 per cent higher than that of a broiler because of its superior taste and texture. |
PUNJAB BROWN
PRIDE OF THE NORTH
Its home tract is the districts of Gurdaspur in Punjab and Ambala and Yamunanagar in Haryana. Punjab Brown is a multi-purpose breed, yielding good quality meat and eggs. In Punjab, they are maintained by prosperous farmers as well as by poor families. In Haryana, the birds are generally maintained as a cash reserve by a few low-income families.
TELLICHERRY
MALABAR DELIGHT
This breed takes its name from the town of Thalassery (Tellicherry in colonial times) in Kerala’s Kannur district. These are small birds with black skin. Like the Kadaknath, the meat is said to have medicinal properties. The breed is mostly used in the preparation of the Thalassery or Kerala biryani, a Mappilla dish for which the town is famous.
KALASTHI
CHITTOOR’S CHICKEN
This bird's home tract is the temple town of Srikalahasti in Rayalaseema’s Chittoor district. The Kalasthi is a fairly heavy bird with a glossy and lustrous plumage and a compressed single comb. Cocks are good fighters and the birds are resistant to disease. It is mainly bred for its meat.
