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Atul Kochhar is taking Indian food to the world

Madhur Jaffrey made Indian food a household name in the UK; Atul Kochhar's restaurants made it gourmet. Neeta Lal meets the Indian chef with two Michelin stars to his credit

Interiors of Jaffrey's London restaurant, Benares
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Interiors of Jaffrey's London restaurant, Benares

Neeta Lal
Like the man, his restaurant too, is understated. I’m at Benares Restaurant & Bar, on 12a Berkeley Square House in London’s spiffy Mayfair, which won its India-born, British-based owner-chef Atul Kochhar his second Michelin star in 2007. Handcrafted furniture, water features and glowing lamps populate the 80-seater discreetly. An elegant bar occupies a sizeable section of the eatery. Waiters bustle about. Fragrant masala chai soon materialises at my table.   

As I sip the brew, the man saunters in. “Hi, I’m Atul!” says Kochhar, pulling up a chair across from me. He is a two-Michelin-star chef, presiding over a culinary