Like the man, his restaurant too, is understated. I’m at Benares Restaurant & Bar, on 12a Berkeley Square House in London’s spiffy Mayfair, which won its India-born, British-based owner-chef Atul Kochhar his second Michelin star in 2007. Handcrafted furniture, water features and glowing lamps populate the 80-seater discreetly. An elegant bar occupies a sizeable section of the eatery. Waiters bustle about. Fragrant masala chai soon materialises at my table.
As I sip the brew, the man saunters in. “Hi, I’m Atul!” says Kochhar, pulling up a chair across from me. He is a two-Michelin-star chef, presiding over a culinary