 "Insecte (1951)")
The Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations, or MuCEM, in Marseille, France is a work of art in itself. Located at the Vieux port and suspended between land and sea, the museum is a dramatic blend of the ancient and the modern — combining Fort Saint-Jean, a fully restored historic monument, with what is called the J4 building, a stunning piece of work by architect Rudy Ricciotti.
Visitors to the MuCEM pass through arcades and vaulted rooms of the fort before stepping onto a suspended bridge that leads to the J4 building that seems to hang over the sea. There’s a beautiful space that allows you to take in the blue of the sea through the metal structure, with the sunlight creating incredible patterns on the ground. You could be forgiven for thinking that this is it — so mesmerising is the space on offer, with lounge chairs and a small café.
Inside, the temporary exhibition space currently offers a delightful perspective on Pablo Picasso through “A Genius Without a Pedestal: Picasso and Popular Arts and Traditions” — a compact exhibition of his works that illustrates his sheer genius. For those who thought Picasso was primarily known for his Cubist art, think again. There is no material he didn’t work with and transform in his 91 years.
Le Banderillero (1959)
As an artist, he was preoccupied with what he saw around him and attempted, through whatever was available to him, to depict that reality. The strong influence of his childhood and the life he saw unfold around him is visible through his work, which remains rooted in the popular arts and traditions of the time. Among his favourite themes were head-dresses, traditional costumes, musical instruments, the circus, bull-fighting, pigeons and toys.
If music was an integral part of his life — several of his works include the guitar and mandolin — so was the world of circus. Several small, precise pencil sketches capture the artist’s fascination for this world. Acrobats, clowns and circus tents are brought to life with faint colours and through the light use of the pencil. You need to peer closely to fully appreciate and assimilate the simple child-like perfection.
From a very young age, Picasso was exposed to bull-fighting by his Spanish father and this influence is evident in a range of vivid drawings and paintings. You can also see Picasso’s drawings of pigeons and eventually of the dove — the peace symbol that was accepted worldwide and contributed immensely to his fame as an artist.
But what comes as more of a surprise is his ability to transform different materials into works of art using a variety of techniques. This second part of the exhibition is built around Picasso’s encounters — some chance and some intentional — with various artisans whose experience and expertise served to intensify his own creativity. He made successive, and successful, forays into woodworking (inspired by Paco Durrio), ceramics (Suzanne and Georges Ramié), silversmithing (François Hugo), linocutting (Hidalgo Arnera), film making (Robert Picault), textiles (Marie Cuttoli), and sheet-metal (Lionel Prejger).
Large fruits bowls and dishes in silver, utensils made of clay and often attractively decorated, large assembled sculptures and even a carpet fill the rooms, making you wonder if there is any material he didn’t use to express himself.
Insecte (1951)
The films include short interviews with those who have had the opportunity of working closely with Picasso, the artist who astounded them with his genius. Put in his hand a shapeless mould of clay and he turns it into a dove that looks ready for flight.
The exhibition has been curated by Josephine Matamoros, Bruno Gaudichon and Emilie Girard. The works have been borrowed from all over the world, including Musée Picasso in Paris and Barcelona. If you happen to be in the area, a detour to Marseille — if only to see the MuCEM and get a glimpse into the full breadth of Picasso’s work — is highly recommended. Even for non-art lovers.
“A Genius Without a Pedestal: Picasso and Popular Arts and Traditions” can be viewed at MuCEM Marseille till August 29
