Priyanka Sharma decodes the bandhgala, or nawab jacket, the hot fashion trend making waves all over this winter.
Last year, when Amitabh Bachchan began his fifth innings as host of the hit quiz show Kaun Banega Crorepati, he sported a new look. While he retained his trademark French-cut beard and oversized black rimmed glasses, the superstar had done away with his customary jacket and tie. Instead, Bachchan struck an elegant picture in well-cut bandhgalas in various colours, teamed with scarves. The new look was designed by his good friend, maverick designer Rohit Bal.
Even as Bachchan continues to adorn trendy bandhgalas for KBC’s sixth season this year as well as at award functions and galas, celebrities and politicians have woken up to this chic winter trend. The trend first got noticed internationally when The Beatles wore matching bandhgalas for their 1965 Shea Stadium concert in the US; today, bandhgalas in bright colours, different fabrics, with stylish accessories, are worn by actors Ranbir Kapoor, Anil Kapoor, Aamir Khan as well as businessmen like Navin Jindal. While the late Rajiv Gandhi was often spotted wearing a traditional bandhgala suit, today most just wear linen bandhgala jackets with high collars, with breeches or casual denims. Also known as the “Nehru” Jacket (for Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru who typically wore a longish version), the bandhgala was recently listed by Time as one of the top ten global political fashion statements. Forbes too recommended the bandhgala as an exquisite option for formal and semiformal occasions. Of late, celebrity grooms like Saif Ali Khan have done away with blingy sherwanis in favour of clean-cut bandhgalas.
* * *
A good Jodhpuri bandhgala, says designer Raghavendra Rathore, is identified by “the authenticity of the cut and compatibility of the fit”. The natty designer has kept the bandhgala tradition alive by giving it a fashionable twist on the runway. This year, Rathore plans to patent his two signature styles — the jodhpurs and the bandhgalas. “It takes over 48 hours for over a dozen craftsmen to put together this piece of heritage. So naturally, it is important to feel the exhilaration when you purchase a Jodhpuri bandhgala suit,” says Rathore.
Contrary to popular belief, “superfine cloth is not the best fabric for a bandhgala”, says Rathore. He prefers, instead, fabrics which have some body — mostly wool blends which are well suited for the winter. Rathore’s new collection boasts of a range of velvet bandhgalas and European-cut wool bandhgalas.
A good bandhgala jacket fits like a glove from the neck down to the waist. The Rathore bandhgala (starting at Rs 49,500) is a short jacket with front-button closing, high collar and ends at the hips, like a suit or a tuxedo. Rathore, who has dressed celebrities like Saif Ali Khan, Jindal, Jyotiraditya Scindia, Shekhar Gupta, Vikram Chandra and Abhishek Manu Singhvi in his trademark bandhgala, calls it an “everlasting trend”. Moreover, it can be paired with denims or worn as a complete suit making it a necessity in the modern Indian man’s wardrobe, says Rathore. “There is no question in a country like ours to buy a bandhgala off the rack. If you want to leave an impression, bespoke is the way to go.”
* * *
More From This Section
For designer Rajesh Pratap Singh, the bandhgala is India’s iconic contribution to the world of fashion. Singh, who experiments with fabrics such as wool and linen, adds, “One shouldn’t button the jacket completely because that is too politician-like. Leave a few buttons open, team it with casual denims and wear it to work.” Avoid gaudy embroideries, he suggests. While his well-tailored jackets begin at Rs 26,500, Singh’s classic bandhgala suits start at Rs 32,500.
Lately, high-end Italian menswear brand Canali has launched a range of bandhgala-like jackets, called the Nawab collection, for the Indian market. The style has found patrons such as Shah Rukh Khan, Leander Paes, Navjot Sidhu and actor Imran Khan. Sidhu, who has several formal jackets from Armani, Tom Ford, Hugo Boss and Canali, follows a cardinal rule. “I never coordinate my pocket square or tie with the colour of my jacket... that would be so drab,” Sidhu had earlier told Business Standard. Instead, he pairs his Canali nawab jackets with pocket squares in bright colours — he has 20 each in yellow, green and magenta.
This winter, be a little adventurous by opting for Canali’s pink velvet nawab jacket of which only 19 pieces have been made. One of the brand’s “price-on-request” items, the jacket is embellished with silver metallic buttons, front pockets with flaps and watch pocket. For a more classic look, go for Canali’s black nawab suit which comes with well-cut trousers without pleats or turn-ups. The sleeveless nawab jacket is ideal for the wedding season — it comes embellished with opulent Mother of Pearl buttons. Prices of the jackets start at Rs 79,500.
You may also invest in an Etro India jacket — the Italian fashion house has introduced a jacket with intricate velvet paisley trimmings (Rs 76,900). Paired with well-fitted pants, a bright pocket square or a Victorian brooch, it will be the perfect look for a cocktail dinner.
