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Tea with <I>rasmalai</I>?

The Dilmah tea lounge in New Delhi's Khan Market reflects the transformation of tea into a gourmet drink

Tea with rasmalai?

Avantika Bhuyan
Sweet aromas of freshly toasted waffles seem to act like a charm, drawing one up in a trance to the Dilmah t-lounge. As one climbs to the first floor, dainty cups of chilled tea garnished with rose petals can be seen perched on to the counter, waiting to be served to customers. Located in the plush environs of Khan Market, this is the first tea lounge in India by Dilmah, a luxury tea company based in Sri Lanka, and a presence in 104 countries.

The fact that the company has chosen to open a lounge in India, after launching similar spaces in Colombo, The Philippines, Malaysia, Poland, Kuwait, and more, is a testament to how the tea culture has undergone a drastic change in the country. From a milky, sweet beverage to be had in the comforts of one's home, tea has gone on to attain the standards of a  gourmet drink.

However, with brands like Chaayos, Wagh Bakri Tea Lounge and Tea Halt already working to revive the traditional styles of tea, and sommeliers at Anandini and Tea Trunk offering handcrafted and single-origin teas, what differentiates the Dilmah t-lounge from them? “Firstly, we are the world's only ethically produced brand of tea,” says the family patriarch Merrill J Fernando, who has spent nearly 66 years in the industry. Moved by the plight of tea producers and workers, he started the brand in 1988 to become the first grower from a tea producing country to bring his produce directly to the market. “Secondly, we are trying to make the beverage relevant to the 21st century,” he says.

One of the key differentiators is also the strong emphasis on gastronomy, with tea-inspired menus and pairings on offer. Fernando's son, Dilhan, has been at the forefront of creating such delicious experiences. “If you tell me that you like churros or chicken tikka, then it is my job as a tea-maker to give you something that will enhance its flavour,” he says. There are two kinds of pairings that could work with tea: a complimentary pairing, such as a salad with a citrusy vinaigrette or a contrasting pairing, like something salty with Oolong tea.

While knowledge of gourmet teas is on a rise, there is ignorance about which dishes they can be paired with. And that’s the gap that Dilmah t-lounge seeks to fill. “For instance, a woody tea will bring out the flavour of rasmalai. Similarly, a low elevation tea, which grows in sandy soil, will balance out the spiciness of a dish,” says Dilhan. At the t-lounge, the focus is on a core line of 18 teas — greens, oolong, light, medium and strong blacks. The recommendations vary according to the time of day as well: while a Prince of Kandy iced tea is suggested for the afternoon, a Cuvee Craighead Estate extra fine Ceylon Silver Tips with strawberries would work well for the evening.

The tea pairings, priced at an average of Rs 550, form a part of the menu as well. So, a chicken or paneer tikka sandwich comes with an original Earl Grey, a baked cheesecake with lychee and ginger is served with a vanilla Ceylon tea and a Nutella white chocolate waffle is paired with a Sencha Green extra special. Sophisticated white teas such as the Ceylon silver tips, which are considered no less than champagne in the culinary world and grow in micro terroir, are served as well, as are infusions, sparkling teas and innovative tea shakes such as the lychee with rose and almond shake and the Earl Grey cream t-shake.
 

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First Published: Jul 30 2016 | 12:17 AM IST

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