Nanotechnology expanding in cosmeceuticals despite concerns: Dr Mosongo Moukwa

Thirty years ago, Dr Kligman coined the term ‘cosmeceuticals’, as topically applied products that have physiological effects on the skin. It is used to define a product that fits the niche between a drug and cosmetics. The term is used by skin scientists, physicians, and skin care professionals, although they are not categorised by the FDA. According to BCC Research, cosmeceuticals represent some of the fastest growing segments of the personal care industry, expanding at a rapid compound annual growth rate of 7.7 percent. The global cosmeceutical market is expected to reach $31.84 billion by 2016. A report by GBI Research, ‘Cosmeceuticals market to 2018’, has forecasted that the global cosmeceuticals market will reach $ 42.4 billion by 2018. The global cosmeceuticals market offers huge potential among the Asian countries, such as Japan, China, and India.
   
Nanotechnology is playing an important role in cosmeceuticals. It has been at the root of numerous innovations, as matter is manipulated at an atomic or molecular level. The rapid spread and commercialisation of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals have given rise to great technical and economic aspirations, opening up new perspectives for the future of cosmeceuticals industry. Nanotechnology has led to a diversity of products and increased the aesthetic appeal of cosmeceutical products with prolonged effects.
 
Sunscreens are widely used to protect the skin from harmful effects of sun rays on exposure. Zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO2) are the most effective approved mineral-based ingredient that protects the skin from sun damage. They form a materialistic barrier on the skin, reflect UVA and UVB rays from penetrating down to the deeper layers of skin, and are less irritating. The main drawback of traditional or conventional sunscreen is that, when applied, it leaves a white chalky layer on the skin. Sunscreen products using nanoparticles of ZnO or TiO2 have allowed for sunscreen products to be transparent, less greasy, and less smelly and have increased their aesthetic appeal.
 
Lipstick and lip gloss represent another area where different nanoparticles can be incorporated to soften or soothe the lips by preventing transepidermal water loss. Korea Research Institute of Bioscience and Biotechnology holds a patent that describes that it is possible to prepare pigments exhibiting a wide range of colours using gold or silver nanoparticles by mixing in various compositional ratios. Colours from such compositions can be maintained for a long period of time. Silica nanoparticles used in lipsticks improve the homogenous distribution of pigments. Once applied, they prevent pigments from migrating or bleeding into the fine line of lips.
 
Nanotechnology-based nail cosmeceuticals have various advantages over conventional products. A study has revealed that nail paints having nano-sized particles improve toughness, mar resistance, and impact resistance of the mammalian nails. Nano Labs CorP, a nanotechnology research and development company, owns  a patent for a nanonail polish and lacquer having advantages that it dries to a very hard state, resists shock, cracking, scratching, and chipping and its elasticity offers superior ease of application without cracking. A strategy which has great potential in cosmeceuticals is the incorporation of nanoparticles having antifungal activity (like silver and metal oxide nanoparticles) in nail polish to treat fungal toenail infections. 
 
Hair care cosmeceuticals represent yet another promising field for nanotechnology. Research is ongoing to discover how nanoparticles can be used to prevent hair loss and maintain shine, silkiness, and health of hairs. Unlike ordinary hair straightening products, nanoemulsion in hair cosmetics does not destroy the outer structure of the hair fibers, called cuticles, to penetrate into the hair strands. Sericin (composed of cationic sericin nanoparticles) is an active area of hair cosmeceuticals. Studies have shown that sericin nanoparticles in hair cosmeceuticals easily adhere to the surface of hair seal and treat the damaged cuticles.
 
Concerns have been raised regarding the potential dangers that may occur when nanoparticles penetrate the skin. Continued research is required to understand and evaluate the behaviour of nanomaterials, including whether nanoparticles remain on the surface of the skin or in the outer dead layer (stratum corneum) of skin, or if they are absorbed into the bloodstream and affect living skin cells. The US, Europe, and Japan, among other nations, have developed and support programs to assess hazards posed by nanomaterials in realistic exposure conditions in order to promote and expand the use of nanotechnology for commercial use.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________
Dr Mosongo Moukwa is director of technology at PolyOne, USA, and was recently an independent consultant based in Chapel Hill, USA, and vice president - technology at Asian Paints Ltd, Mumbai, India. He is a member of the American Chemical Society and Product Development Management Association.
Email: mosongo@mosongomoukwa.com